{"id":2063,"date":"2014-10-01T13:42:23","date_gmt":"2014-10-01T08:12:23","guid":{"rendered":"http:\/\/www.bedandchai.com\/blog\/?p=2063"},"modified":"2015-08-04T14:09:16","modified_gmt":"2015-08-04T08:39:16","slug":"challenge-relaxing-amritsar","status":"publish","type":"post","link":"https:\/\/blog.bedandchai.com\/fr\/challenge-relaxing-amritsar\/","title":{"rendered":"Objectif d\u00e9tente \u00e0 Amritsar"},"content":{"rendered":"<p><\/p>\n<p><p>J\u2019entends d\u2019ici vos rires sarcastiques.<\/p>\n<p>\u00ab\u00a0&#8211; Se relaxer \u00e0 Amritsar, la ville d\u2019Inde pr\u00e9tendument la plus pollu\u00e9e et bruyante\u00a0? Mission impossible\u00a0!\u00a0\u00bb, me direz-vous.<\/p>\n<p>Mon esprit de contradiction \u00e9tant ce qu\u2019il est, j\u2019ai tent\u00e9 l\u2019exp\u00e9rience&#8230;<\/p>\n<p>Apr\u00e8s six \u2013 fra\u00eeches \u2013 heures de train depuis Delhi, j\u2019arrive \u00e0 bon port. Tandis que surgissent de toutes parts des conducteurs de rickshaws, je tente une technique de respiration en pleine conscience apprise \u00e0 mon cours de yoga.<\/p>\n<p>Bringuebal\u00e9, ballot\u00e9 \u00e0 travers la ville, j\u2019entre en m\u00e9ditation profonde et fais abstraction des v\u00e9hicules divers (autobus, voitures, vaches) qui manquent de justesse \u00a0de nous heurter de plein fouet.<\/p>\n<p>Enfin, j\u2019arrive dans le charmant (mais on\u00e9reux) h\u00f4tel que j\u2019ai choisi en guise de retraite spirituelle. Le Ranjit\u2019s Svaasa est un oasis luxuriant, o\u00f9 les plantes vertes s\u2019entrem\u00ealent. La chambre spacieuse m\u2019accueille pour une <span style=\"text-decoration: line-through;\">sieste<\/span> s\u00e9ance de yoga bien m\u00e9rit\u00e9e.<\/p>\n<p><a href=\"http:\/\/www.bedandchai.com\/blog\/wp-content\/uploads\/2014\/09\/photo-14.jpg\"><img loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" class=\"aligncenter size-full wp-image-2099\" src=\"http:\/\/www.bedandchai.com\/blog\/wp-content\/uploads\/2014\/09\/photo-14.jpg\" alt=\"Hotel in Amritsar\" width=\"1536\" height=\"2048\" srcset=\"https:\/\/blog.bedandchai.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2014\/09\/photo-14.jpg 1536w, https:\/\/blog.bedandchai.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2014\/09\/photo-14-225x300.jpg 225w, https:\/\/blog.bedandchai.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2014\/09\/photo-14-768x1024.jpg 768w, https:\/\/blog.bedandchai.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2014\/09\/photo-14-600x800.jpg 600w\" sizes=\"auto, (max-width: 1536px) 100vw, 1536px\" \/><\/a><\/p>\n<p>\u00a0<\/p>\n<p>A 15h30, on tambourine \u00e0 ma porte, pour m\u2019annoncer que le taxi que j\u2019ai command\u00e9 est arriv\u00e9. Direction la fronti\u00e8re, pour une c\u00e9r\u00e9monie peu commune\u00a0! Claquement de bottes et pas d\u2019oie s\u2019alternent dans une danse amusante et, je l\u2019avoue, peu reposante. A grand renfort de cris, les soldats v\u00eatus de rouge et tous enchapeaut\u00e9s semblent entamer un \u00ab\u00a0haka\u00a0\u00bb intimidant \u00e0 l\u2019intention des pakistanais, qui r\u00e9pliquent depuis l\u2019autre c\u00f4t\u00e9 de la porte monumentale. Pourtant, ni la foule ni les bousculades ne parviennent \u00e0 bout de mon calme olympien. Progressivement, je me prends au jeu et me laisse gagner par l\u2019ambiance festive qui \u00e9mane de cette d\u00e9monstration de force communautaire. Je me surprends m\u00eame \u00e0 applaudir, gris\u00e9 par l\u2019atmosph\u00e8re.<\/p>\n<p>19h. Le soir tombe d\u00e9j\u00e0, apportant avec lui une irr\u00e9pressible envie de m\u2019hydrater. Sur les conseils d\u2019un aimable passant, je me retrouve au Grand H\u00f4tel, o\u00f9 je l\u2019on me sert une Kingfisher pression, breuvage bien connu pour ses vertus th\u00e9rapeutiques (\u2026).<\/p>\n<p>Le lendemain, sous une pluie de mousson torrentielle, je pars en direction du fameux temple d\u2019Or. Dans ce tourbillon tumultueux, enchev\u00eatrement de pluie et de klaxons sonores, je guette la qui\u00e9tude du temple. Comme il se doit, je d\u00e9pose mes chaussures et mon sac et je commence la visite. L\u2019endroit est absolument ravissant, m\u00eame si la pluie rend le marbre fort glissant.<\/p>\n<p><a href=\"http:\/\/www.bedandchai.com\/blog\/wp-content\/uploads\/2014\/09\/photo-13.jpg\"><img loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" class=\"aligncenter size-full wp-image-2100\" src=\"http:\/\/www.bedandchai.com\/blog\/wp-content\/uploads\/2014\/09\/photo-13.jpg\" alt=\"Le Temple d'Or, Amritsar\" width=\"2048\" height=\"1536\" srcset=\"https:\/\/blog.bedandchai.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2014\/09\/photo-13.jpg 2048w, https:\/\/blog.bedandchai.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2014\/09\/photo-13-300x225.jpg 300w, https:\/\/blog.bedandchai.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2014\/09\/photo-13-1024x768.jpg 1024w, https:\/\/blog.bedandchai.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2014\/09\/photo-13-600x450.jpg 600w\" sizes=\"auto, (max-width: 2048px) 100vw, 2048px\" \/><\/a><\/p>\n<p>\u00a0<\/p>\n<p>Mon ambition de faire de ce weekend une retraite spirituelle est en revanche rudement mise \u00e0 l\u2019\u00e9preuve par le Sikh Museum, qui relate dans une succession de peintures et de photographies les horreurs et diverses tortures subies par les gourous.<\/p>\n<p>Je trouve refuge dans le pavillon, o\u00f9 des musiciens accompagnent en un rythme entra\u00eenant les chanteurs de kirtan<sup>1<\/sup>. Puis je me rends \u00e0 l\u2019\u00e9tage, dont l\u2019\u00e9troitesse des couloirs rend le climat plus confidentiel. Je reste prostr\u00e9 de surprise en tombant sur le Granthi<sup>2<\/sup>, absorb\u00e9 par la lecture du volumineux Guru Granth Sahib<sup>3<\/sup>.<\/p>\n<p>Enfin, pour terminer cette visite haute en couleurs (\u00e0 l\u2019instar des turbans des sympathiques Sikhs\u00a0!), je me rends \u00e0 la cantine du temple pour y d\u00e9guster un d\u00e9licieux cha\u00ef. Cette derni\u00e8re accueillant chaque jour 60 000 visiteurs en moyenne, je vous laisse imaginer le nombre de bras n\u00e9cessaires pour nettoyer la vaisselle\u00a0!<\/p>\n<p>Au terme de ce weekend &#8211; qui ne fut certes pas de tout repos \u2013 mon unique conseil est de donc vous rendre \u00e0 Amritsar sans attente particuli\u00e8re. Laissez-vous simplement porter et surprendre par cette ville riche et chaleureuse, souriez et partagez. C\u2019est en tous cas ce que pr\u00e9conise l\u2019une des cinq r\u00e8gles des Sikh, r\u00e9put\u00e9s pour leur philosophie philanthropique et chevaleresque.<\/p>\n<p>\u00a0<\/p>\n<p><sup>1 <\/sup>hymnes sacr\u00e9s<\/p>\n<p><sup>2\u00a0<\/sup>Homme ou femme charg\u00e9(e) de la lecture du livre sacr\u00e9. Les personnes se relaient toutes les deux heures environ.<\/p>\n<p><sup>3 <\/sup>Livre sacr\u00e9 des Sikh<\/p>\n<\/p>\n<p><\/p>","protected":false},"excerpt":{"rendered":"<p>J\u2019entends d\u2019ici vos rires sarcastiques. \u00ab\u00a0&#8211; Se relaxer \u00e0 Amritsar, la ville d\u2019Inde pr\u00e9tendument la plus pollu\u00e9e et bruyante\u00a0? Mission impossible\u00a0!\u00a0\u00bb, me direz-vous. Mon esprit de contradiction \u00e9tant ce qu\u2019il est, j\u2019ai tent\u00e9 l\u2019exp\u00e9rience&#8230; Apr\u00e8s six \u2013 fra\u00eeches \u2013 heures de train depuis Delhi, j\u2019arrive \u00e0 bon port. Tandis que surgissent de toutes parts des [&hellip;]<\/p>\n","protected":false},"author":10,"featured_media":2300,"comment_status":"open","ping_status":"open","sticky":false,"template":"","format":"standard","meta":{"_jetpack_memberships_contains_paid_content":false,"footnotes":"","jetpack_publicize_message":"","jetpack_publicize_feature_enabled":true,"jetpack_social_post_already_shared":true,"jetpack_social_options":{"image_generator_settings":{"template":"highway","default_image_id":0,"font":"","enabled":false},"version":2}},"categories":[650,3,631,648,4,658],"tags":[],"class_list":{"0":"post-2063","1":"post","2":"type-post","3":"status-publish","4":"format-standard","5":"has-post-thumbnail","7":"category-arts-crafts","8":"category-culture","9":"category-gastronomy","10":"category-histoireetreligions","11":"category-traveling-tips","12":"category-travels-in-india","13":"czr-hentry"},"yoast_head":"<!-- This site is optimized with the Yoast SEO plugin v27.4 - https:\/\/yoast.com\/product\/yoast-seo-wordpress\/ -->\n<title>Challenge : relaxing in Amritsar<\/title>\n<meta name=\"description\" content=\"\u201c- Relax in Amritsar, the most polluted and noisy city of India? 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